Washington DC 

The American Experience or is it?

By John Joyce

      Like the Vatican, Washington, District of Columbia is in one country but operates independently. It has an international flavour and appears un-American. Yes another of those second best overall places to live in the US, just behind Salt Lake City. Washington , DC is a charming city with numerous Italian  type monuments and  Smithsonian galleries and museums but  I wonder without the Smithsonian Institute if Washington would be such an attraction? Washington is an ideal vacation destination for a partner who refuses to go on cruises or sightsee. Just give them a copy of The Smithsonian Associate Magazine.  www.ResdentAssociates.org and enrol them in 'Campus on the Mall' with its many profound lectures and seminars.

         While in Washington I learnt  that in  1791 George Washington appointed   Frenchman Pierre Charles Le'Enfant to develop a plan for the city. It  has a impressive metro system which makes getting  around easy. Foggy Bottom, Dupont Circle and L'Enfant Plaza are station stops. Any city with a metro system promotes musical buskers and a fashion consciousness. Washingtonians dress well, but not as well as  folk on Rue St Catherine's, Montreal. Now does Milan have a metro system?  I could not pin down a Washington accent or speech pattern. Possibly the  neighbouring states of Maryland and Virginia stifle such individualism. Washington residents have no vote in Congress or as the bumper stickers read "Taxation without Representation." At the weekends, Washingtonians read the Sunday edition of the New York Times and  visit the Delaware Beaches or  the Royalist area of Annapolis.

          There are two rivers and three airports to know about depending on your mode of transportation. The Potomac and Anacosta Rivers, Ronald Regan Washington National Airport, and Washington Dulles International Airport, Baltimore/Washington International Airport (BWI).

        Most  cities have a cathedral and a train station. Both of which along with the local art gallery are worth reconnoitering. The train station is first on my list to scout even if it is closed as in Whitehorse.  "I went down to the station with no suitcase in hand" might wail a blues singer up on Shaw-U Street. Going to the station gives me a purpose plus I can say "where is the station" in five languages. It is so romantic to gaze at the city names on the departure boards, Jacksonville, Charlotte, Raleigh, Tampa, Orland and watch  lovers meet or family bid their adieus. One quickly observes that railway travellers are usually nationals of any country and not foreigners.  Union Station is modeled after the Roman Baths of Diocletian. With  96-foot barrel-vaulted ceilings and 22-karat gold inlaid coffered ceiling with  three concourses. Perfect film sitting for one of those 1920 gangster shootouts!

         When I arrive in a new city I try to obtain the travel information items as soon as possible. Within minutes at an airport, bus, or boat terminal I am rummaging for 'Best Bets' and free maps. I then seek the Visitor's Information Centre usually located in the heart of the city-downtown.   The DC Chamber of Commerce Official Visitor Information Centre is in the Ronald Reagan International Trade Centre (ITC). Here one of the Historical Societies Members may gave you a two for one walking tour ticket. Within 20 minutes of being in Washington one learns the names of the monuments to visit however at the information centre there are pamphlets and maps on Beyond the Monuments. Places such as, Lafayette Square Adams Morgan and Southwest. The one Monument I enjoyed was the Theodore Roosevelt Memorial, on an island of the same name. Reminds me of Ottawa River and the Parkway. Lafayette Square is pleasant prologue before visiting the White House. I learnt on train to Galway that the architect of the White House was James Hoban,(1762-1832) an Irishman, who studied architecture in Dublin. It is claimed that part of Leinster House, in Dublin was a dry run for the White House.

         The title of the thesis would be   'sight seeing by trolley bus'.  For years I have sat on these lunging  amphibious looking buses  with hair blowing and  Hungarian being spoken loudly around me. For Washington I  suggest not to use them but visit most attractions by walking, regular bus or metro. Getting around by bus is difficult with any city served by a metro. Just try it.  Locals deny the buses exist and always point you to the  metro for any destination. The bus numbers, routes, and  times are closely guarded secrets,  placed in an envelope at your christening.

I did the Historic Downtown DC Walking Tour that leaves from Discovery Channel Store  MCI Center. 7th and F Streets. It illuminated the importance of the US Patent Office and  primed an interest in architecture. Windows and roofs are the clues! The old post office will soon be a hotel but meanwhile its 315 foot tower gives the city view. Without this tour I would have missed the Great Hall in the National Building Museum all in the Pension Building. A place for a quiet sandwich at 2:10pm? The subject of the Civil War naturally comes up on such a walking tour. The story line is this "Washington was in North but with very strong ties with the South." The largest single span Chinese arch in the world at 7th and H street welcomes  visitors to Chinatown. I learnt that Washington was another of the cities that Charles Dickens visited. After the walking tour a fun logistic exercise is to get to Georgetown by more walking or city bus. I used the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal or the C & O Canal as a destination in Georgetown. Now we all now that rivers are for rowing and fishing but canals are for running along and thinking about politics or where to eat that evening.

        Georgetown was originally a tobacco port but now is one of those places that people could live in for a time. Georgetown is trendy.  These residents are famous Americans or visiting Oxford professors  writing books on  semantics at Georgetown University. Everyone probably has season tickets to the Kennedy Centre. Washington Harbour is a five minute walk down a hill and you can always detour  by the famous  Old Stone House. Does anyone do real work around a river harbour?  Maybe the rowers out there training on the Potomac River?  It was at the harbour I saw the President's helicopter swooning by.

         It is said  by the wise that  being able to talk local sport and music covers 70% of all conversations when travelling.  The gentleman at the hotel  front desk  told me that The  Capitals  are the hockey team for Washington DC and the   Red Skins are the  American football team. The  basketball teams are the Wizards and Mystics. Most sporting activities play at the  MCI Centre which has a free sports gallery. I learnt later that  Duke Ellington, Fats Waller  Roberta Flack, Marvin Gaye, Aretha Franklin all have strong associations with Washington. U Street is the area to migrate to for more jazz and Duke Ellington. Smithsonian exhibits included one on the piano and one on Woody Guthery.  I now see why   Bob Dylan first imitated him.

        A saxophonist busker played Paul Desmond's Take Five on Connecticut Avenue and again near Union Station. Other musical associations that Washington prompted were; Magic Bus The Who, Love In Vain,  Rolling Stones,  FBI, The   Shadows  Take the A Train with  Duke Ellington, Pawn in the game,  Bob Dylan  and  Mussorgsky's Pictures at an Exhibition.

          Connecticut and Massachussetts  is the Embassy Row section. The Canadian Embassy is interestingly missing from Embassy Row, but prestigiously located at 501  Pennsylvania Avenue. Arthur Erickson was of course the architect, and it features the Rotunda of the Provinces temple, type echo chamber. The Washington Monument seems a bit of a graven image to me. Which I am sure is not the right thing to say at the Maui tennis club. It has a documented history, which helps and does get a lot of postcard coverage. It would be a great start - finishing spot for a 10k fun run. The Ellipse is a large field that would make a great fair ground or with its  chunky grass a practice field for  the touring Harequins or Spring Bok Rugby Clubs. The  US National Christmas tree is plonked down in the Ellipse.

        While boating, your upward mobile friends might  chime "We could have spent  two weeks in D.C. visiting the art galleries and museums." They are correct. The Smithsonian's 16 museums and galleries are the world's largest museum complex in the world. The National Air and Space  Museum is the most visited  museum in the world or so I read. It has excellent free tours and IMAX movie theatre for grumpy relations.  I preferred The National Gallery of Art with its stupendous collection of Picasso, Matisse and Jackson Pollack. Highbrow Europeans must voice, "How did these yanks get to buy some much good stuff?"  Outside on the Mall there are manicured  gardens such as  Ripley and  Folger Rose Garden with  silent  sculptures standing by.  Even in a rush it is difficult to ignore these works which include Rodin and  Henry Moore. The Mall reminded me of Hampton Court. Besides the Smithsonian art galleries there are private exhibitions such as the Phillips Collection up at Dupont Circle and the Corcoran Gallery of Art had Norman Rockwell - pictures for the American People.

           Here is the show off list that one can spout off while waiting to clear customs at Heathrow or at an open house during Christmas and New Years. Anthony Williams, the mayor, Smithsonian Castle,  Golden Triangle, Washington Circle, Theodore Roosevelt Monument, Washington Flyer, and  Maryland.

        The one more day syndrome! Next visit to Washington I will rent a bicycle and visit the monuments. I even have a route worked out. Rock Creek and Potomac Parkway then along  Ohio Drive, cross over the Potomac River by Arlington Memorial Bridge, then north on George Washington Memorial Parkway then scoot over to Theodore Roosevelt Island. At 6:10am one morning I would like to run around the Ellipse. On my next visit I hope to visit George Washington's home at Mount Vernon and Old Town-Alexandia. As I look at the list I see that maybe two more days are needed. Here is the list; National Geography Magazine Building, listen to live Jazz, have  a game of chess near Daniel Chester French's fountain, at Dupont Circle, visit  the Southwest's promenade and marinas, National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception, library of congress,  US Naval Observatory  after 2003  the Patent Office.  Yes I admit it. I would find a away of getting to the  Delaware Beaches.  

*

 John Joyce  was born at Hampton Court, in the U.K. He  held school  records for running the mile. He was educated in London and Salford, Lancashire and has studied at Dalhousie University, University of British Columbia and Capilano College. John Joyce  started writing philosophy at school and has many articles ready for publication. Moniques's Interview is his first short play  and another is on the stove. He lives in exile with his wife Diane, in Vancouver, Canada. Altus Arts Agency promotes his works world wide http://members.shaw.ca/alltus/

Like to add a comment?

Send your comment to editor@the-writers-garret.com with the title of this story in the Subject line

 

 

 

Read more articles

Back to Main